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Home Assessment
About
Home Performance with
energy star®
New Yorkers are spending more money than ever to heat and cool their
homes. Many homeowners are not getting the comfort they are paying
for. Many homes suffer from cold spots, rooms that are too hot or
too cold, ice dams, drafts, building rot, and mold and mildew
problems. They may all be common signs that the house is not
properly insulated or that the heating system is improperly
balanced, or that moist air in the house is not being effectively
controlled. Many homes are simply heating the outdoors.
Now there's something you can do about it. The Home Performance with
energy star initiative
is sponsored by the New York State Energy Research and Development
Authority (NYSERDA) as part of the New York Energy SmartSM
Program. Contractors participating in this initiative have
successfully completed a comprehensive skills evaluation in home
performance diagnostics. Each participating contractor has earned
certification through the Building Performance Institute (BPI), a
nationally recognized organization for building science technology
that sets the standards for assessing and improving the energy
performance of homes.
About Your
Home's Assessment
Your Home Assessment is customized to identify the particular needs
of your home based on our analysis. The information that your
Contractor gathered has been entered into a computer software
package that helps your Contractor determine the most cost-effective
measures you can take to make your house more efficient and
comfortable. This report outlines that analysis, prioritizes
recommended home repairs, and helps you determine the best
improvements for your home.
Blower Door Tests
& Air Leakage
Many people assume that a home is built with enough insulation to
help keep warm air inside during the winter, and outside in the
summer. But the truth is that not all insulation performs the same,
and insulation is only half the solution to making sure that your
home performs at its best for maximum comfort.
The other important half of the solution to creating a better living
environment is reducing uncontrolled air leakage. Typically, as much
as 25% of your heating and cooling dollars escape through unseen
cracks and gaps in your home, which are usually found in attics,
basements, duct systems, and around floors, doors, and windows. If
you combine all the holes and gaps in a typical house, it can be
like leaving a window or door wide open year-round. In addition,
sealing air leaks also helps prevent moisture from entering the
attic and walls, which protects your home from structural or
insulation damage.
Your certified Home Performance Contractor has assessed the air loss
in your home using a "blower door test," an effective and accurate
method to measure and identify areas where air is escaping. You may
have seen it being used during the site visit. The test provides
some key information about your home. "Shell Leakage" indicates the
measurement of air leaking into your home. The "Building Air
Tightness Limit" indicates how much air should be entering your home
to help ensure that you have sufficient fresh air even when the
windows are closed. If you have too much air infiltration, your
Contractor will provide recommended measures to the seal air leaks.
If the test indicates that your house is tight, your Contractor may
recommend mechanical ventilation to assist in the removal of
potential indoor air pollutants.
Stopping Air
leaks
Once air leaks are detected, a variety of materials are used to
eliminate air passages in attics, basements, and living spaces. The
materials used in air sealing include sealant foams, rigid baffles,
caulking, weather-stripping, and rigid insulation. When leaks are
properly sealed, less air escapes into your attic, or passes through
walls, floors, and vent stacks, or is drawn into your basement. This
procedure also helps prevent moisture problems, including peeling
paint and structural damage in walls and building cavities. For this
reason, air sealing must accompany most attic insulation work. The
table at the right will indicate the amount of air sealing that is
recommended for your home.
Insulating Your
Home for Greater Performance
Insulation-Attic
The table at the right indicates where your house needs insulation
upgrades in the attic. Insulation decreases your energy usage by
slowing heat loss and is most effective when installed in
conjunction with air sealing. Insulation also acts as a sound
buffer, so you can enjoy a quieter home.
The chart also indicates the type of insulation recommended.
• Cellulose insulation is an excellent insulator made out
of recycled newsprint treated with a fire retardant. It provides
excellent coverage, filling in gaps often left between insulation
batts and ceiling or wall joists.
• Cellulose insulation can also be used to stop air leakage,
either outside air coming in, or conditioned air leaking out. To
prevent air leakage, the cellulose insulation will be installed at
twice the normal density. This procedure, called "dense pack
cellulose," is very effective and will not harm walls or ceilings.
• Spray foam insulation can be one of several products, generally
polyurethane or polyisocyanurate. These are environmentally safe
synthetic foams that fill gaps and holes, have excellent insulation
values and block air movement.
• Fiberglass batts are the most common form of insulation. The batts
must be installed very carefully to avoid leaving gaps that become
leakage paths for air.
Attic Ventilation
Attic ventilation is important for removing moisture from the attic
to help prevent damage to insulation and the roof structure. Attic
ventilation also may help control ice damming. Building code calls
for roof ventilation to allow moisture that may enter your attic
space to dry out and help prevent roof damage. The ventilation
should be balanced, with some vents placed high on the roof
structure, with others placed low. Typical high vents are (1) ridge
vents - a continuous opening at the peak of a roof, usually covered
with shingles to match the roof; and (2) "roof vents" - covered
openings in the roof. These come in various sizes. Typical low vents
are "soffit vents"—small, screened holes or a continuous opening in
the flat soffit area that connects the lower end of the roof to the
wall. "Propavents" are rigid foam baffles installed on the inside
surface of the roof deck to ensure that soffit vents are not blocked
by attic insulation. Your Contractor may recommend attic ventilation
in conjunction with any insulation/air sealing upgrades to prevent
structural damage.
Insulating Your
Home for Greater Performance
Insulation-Walls
and Floors
The table at the right indicates where your house needs insulation
upgrades in basements, crawl spaces, walls, floors and other areas
of the home that may have been overlooked during construction or
have diminished over time. Insulation decreases your energy usage by
slowing heat loss and is most effective when installed in
conjunction with air sealing. Insulation also acts as a sound
buffer, so you can enjoy a quieter home.
The chart also indicates the type of insulation recommended.
•
Cellulose insulation is an excellent insulator made out of recycled
newsprint treated with a fire retardant. It provides excellent
coverage, filling in gaps often left between insulation batts and
ceiling or wall joists.
•
Cellulose insulation can also be used to stop air leakage, either
outside air coming in, or conditioned air leaking out. To prevent
air leakage, the cellulose insulation will be installed at twice the
normal density. This procedure, called "dense pack cellulose," is
very effective and will not harm walls or ceilings.
•
Foam insulation can be one of several products, generally spray
polyurethane or spray polyisocyanurate. These are environmentally
safe synthetic foams that fill gaps and holes, provide excellent
insulation values and block air movement.
•
Fiberglass batts are the most common form of insulation. The batts
must be installed very carefully to avoid leaving gaps that become
leakage paths for air.
Windows and Doors
It's important to have well-insulated, high performance windows and
doors. You'll see and feel the difference through improved comfort,
reduced condensation and lower utility costs. Look for the
energy star label to
identify the most efficient windows, skylights, and sliding glass
doors. A window's insulating ability is measured by its U-value.
Since heat flows from warm to cold in the winter, heat flows from
your home interior through the windows to the colder exterior. The
reverse occurs in the summer. The lower the U-value, the less heat
flows through the window. Windows should have a U-value of .35 or
lower. Your contractor may recommend that replacement windows have
low-emissivity coatings (low-E). These windows transmit virtually
the same amount of daylight as uncoated windows, but they help keep
the heat in during the winter, and out during the summer. Low-E
windows often make a room feel significantly more comfortable.
Doors are measured by R-value, which is the resistance to heat flow.
The greater the R-value, the greater the effectiveness in slowing
heat loss and maximizing energy efficiency and comfort. Doors should
have an R-value of 4 or higher.
Heating and
Cooling Systems
About half of your home's energy costs are for heating and cooling.
That's why maximizing its efficiency is important. One way to
maximize performance on an existing system is through periodic
maintenance, including cleaning and tuning. Oil systems should have
maintenance performed annually, while gas-fired systems should be
checked and serviced every two years. If your system is more than 10
years old, it may be time to replace the system with a
high-efficiency and correctly sized system.
The efficiency of a gas or oil heating system is a measure of how
effectively it converts fuel into useful heat. There are two types
of efficiency. Overall system efficiency gives you the entire
system's efficiency while it is operating, taking in to
consideration energy loss through the distribution system. The
annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) measures the
efficiency of the boiler or furnace, accounting for start-up and
cool down, as well as other operating losses that occur in real
operating conditions.
New gas-fired heating systems should have an Annual Fuel
Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) rating of at least 90%, while the
minimum efficiency for oil furnaces and all types of hot water
boilers is 84% AFUE. The efficiency of central air conditioning
systems and heat pumps is measured by its Seasonal Energy Efficiency
Ratio (SEER), The higher the SEER, the greater the efficiency. A
SEER of at least 12 is recommended. If you are considering a new
system, ask for one with the
energy star label for optimum efficiency. If your Contractor
recommends that your system be replaced, the assessment summary at
the end of this report will include the system's estimated cost,
annual savings and payback (the projected number of years it takes
for the fuel savings to pay for the system).
Water Heaters
At the right you
may see recommendations for improving the efficiency of your water
heater. Typical recommendations include insulating an existing tank,
replacing the existing tank with a more efficient model using the
same fuel, or replacing the existing tank with another fuel source,
usually natural gas or a heat pump water heater. If your hot water
pipes are not insulated in a cold basement, your Home Performance
Contractor will often recommend insulating the first six feet of
pipe.
Combustion
Appliance Testing and Performance
Your Building Performance Contractor has been trained to inspect and
test combustion appliances such as heating equipment, ovens and
water heaters, for proper performance to ensure safe operation. This
comprehensive evaluation includes measurement of carbon monoxide
(CO) produced by the appliance and testing to ensure that
potentially dangerous combustion gases are not introduced into the
home. Certified Home Performance Contractors test for any combustion
safety problems before and after performing any energy
improvements to your home. The table at the right shows the results
for your home expressed in Parts Per Million (PPM). The table also
shows the maximum amounts of CO considered acceptable according to
EPA guidelines.
Appliance
Replacement
When it's time to buy or replace your home appliances, be sure to
ask for models with the
energy star label. These appliances use up to 50% less energy
than conventional models, saving you money on utility bills while
reducing air pollution. For example,
energy star labeled
clothes washers use up to 60% less energy and 36% less water. In one
year, that's more water than the average person drinks in a
lifetime. Many dishwashers that carry the
energy star label are
built with innovative technology to clean better while using less
energy and water. And, today's
energy star labeled
refrigerators use half the energy of a 10-year old conventional
refrigerator—for savings of up to $70 annually.
You'll find the energy star
label on brand name refrigerators, dishwashers, clothes
washers, room air conditioners, and home electronics. Please ask
your Home Performance Contractor or local retailer for more
information.
Lighting Upgrades
When replacing light bulbs or installing new light
fixtures, you'll save time and money when you choose models that
have earned the energy star.
According to the EPA, today's
energy star labeled
lights equal or surpass the quality of light found in conventional
incandescent bulbs, using 75% less energy and lasting 10 times
longer. You'll save on energy bills plus the cost and trouble of
constantly replacing bulbs.
This report addresses the key recommendations/or improving the
comfort, safety and efficiency of your home. The table on the right
summarizes the measures by cost, estimated annual savings, and
payback. The table at the bottom shows the estimated total annual
fuel savings. You should use these tables as a guide for deciding
what work you want to have done. Remember, your Home Performance
Contractor is ready to complete these measures promptly to help you
save. |
